Venice, Italy, often called the most beautiful and the most romantic city in the world, is situated on 117 small islands in the Venetian Lagoon. Until the nineteenth century these islands were completely separated from the mainland so the Duke in The Gondoliers was truly ignorant in thinking he could ever arrive there on horseback. In the nineteenth century, a viaduct was built so that the railroad could come into the city and then in the twentieth, another for cars. However, the cars must park on a lot near the railroad station. From there, the only way to get around the city is on foot or by the boats which travel on the many canals. There are numerous small bridges across these canals but most are approached by steps, so even bicycles are impractical. They do make it possible to reach any point in the city by foot. The Grand Canal carves an S-shaped curve through the center of the city and is traveled by vaporetti or water buses which serve as public transportation and numerous small, privately owned boats, including gondolas. The smaller craft can also traverse the many smaller canals throughout the city. The Grand Canal is crossed by three bridges, including the famous Rialto. There are many other small islands in the lagoon near Venice most of which are autonomous.

HISTORY
ORIGINS
While there were probably small settlements of fishermen on some of the islands in very early times, the first true settlers were probably refugees from nearby cities who were escaping invasions by the Goths. Huns and other invaders in the AD fourth century. The traditional founding is said to have occurred with the dedication of the church of San Jacopo in 421. In about 568, with the arrival of the Lombards, the communities on the shore moved their administrate centers to the islands and founded the Tribuni Maiores (Major Tribunal), the first formal government of the islands. Sometime in the eighth century, the people elected Ursus, the first recorded city leader or Dux, the first Doge of Venice. Soon the basilica of St. Mark and the first Ducal Palace were built. The Emperor Charlemagne recognized the city as a Byzantine territory and gave them trading rights in the Adriatic. From these beginnings, the city grew, developed as a naval power and eventually achieved independence.

MEDIEVAL
By the twelfth century was free, a independent city state and a republic. It had grown into a major trading center and had built the Arsenal to build the many ships it needed. Soon it had seized territories of its own along the Adriatic and also west on the mainland to protect it many trade routes. It financed the Fourth Crusade and became a European power, conquering Constantinople and bringing back much plunder including the bronze horses which were placed about the entrance to St. Mark's.

Venice was the most prosperous city in Europe. The grand palaces which still line the Grand Canal were built and the artistic life of the city prospered. However, by the fifteenth century decline set in and Venice lost a number of its territories. Plague killed many residents and with the opening of trade with the Americas, the center of naval activity moved west to Portugal. In spite of its losses, however, Venice continued to be a force to be reckoned with with a formidable army as well as a navy.

Today, one of the best known areas from that time is the ghetto. Originally it was the site of iron foundries, the campo ghetta (Ghetta is cooling slag.) Gradually Jews concentrated there and it had five synagogues. Very cosmopolitan, most European languages could be heard there. Hebrew was and still is used on signs and for documents such as wedding contracts. The region was locked at night and the Jews were very restricted at all times. This period is the one pictured in Shakespeare's The Merchant of Venice. Today the area with its synagogues is still the center of Jewish life although less than one-third of Venice's Jews still live there. When Napoleon conquered Venice in 1797 he removed the gates of the ghetto and ended the other restrictions.

THE REPUBLIC OF VENICE AND ITS DOGES
In spite of many ups and downs, Venice was a republic from the late seventh century until the time of Napoleon. The leader was the Doge who, in the beginning , ruled as an autocrat. Usually the Doge ruled for life and, after early ones tried to pass the office within their family, a law was written to forbid this. Over the years, it became an elective office. Venice became known the Most Serene Republic of Venice. The election procedure varied as time passed until 1268 when the following procedure was adopted and used until 1797. Below is an old description of this.

And this was how the election was made: The noble councilors assembled that day the Great Council; and for each one who was in the council there was made a little ball of wax, and inside thirty of these balls was a piece of parchment on which was written "Lector." Then each one took a ball, and the councilors and the forty broke them in the sight of all; and when there was found within the word "Lector," he who had drawn it; went and sat down in a certain place, and those who found nothing written went behind. Thus when all was done there were thirty electors. ... And when they had sworn their oath before the council they remained in their room above in the palace, and the others went away. Then these thirty men made balls of wax, and in nine of them was a parchment with the: word "Lector"; and each one took his ball, and those who found the word within tarried and the others went away. Then these nine assembled together and chose forty Venetians; and they had power to choose from the council, and from outside the council, seven of them agreeing together. And when they were agreed, they made known to Meser Nicolao Michele, and to the councilors, and to the three heads of the forty, the names of the forty men whom they had chosen; and they sent to fetch them to the palace. And they made forty balls of wax of which twelve had within the word "Lector"; and they put the forty balls in a hat. And there was brought in a child of the age of eleven years; and as each one came up, they said to the little child: "Put your hand into the hat, and take out a wax ball for such a one" ... and the child took [each]and gave it to [one of] the councilors, and they broke it before him; and if there was written within "Lector," they made him sit down, and if not they sent him away. Then the vicar made the twelve chosen swear to observe all that the wise men had established; and they went into a room and chose twenty-five men, eight of them agreeing together. Then they made known the names to the vicar and to the others; and they assembled them together, and made twenty-five balls, and within nine of them was the parchment with the word "Lector." And they came one after the other up to the hat, and the child drew a ball for each and the councilors broke them. And they made the nine chosen swear the oath, and they went into a chamber and chose forty-five men, seven men agreeing together. Then the vicar and the others assembled the forty-five, and made forty-five balls of wax, and in eleven of them put the parchment; and the child drew for them. And the eleven having been sworn, went into a chamber, and chose forty-one men, nine men agreeing together. These forty-one were to choose the Doge, twenty-five agreeing together. So they made the forty-one swear to observe the rules that the people had approved, and to support and defend the Doge who should be chosen.

Once the new Doge was chosen he was presented to the people by saying "This is is your doge, if it pleases you". Of course they agreed. Thus the Doge was chosen "by the people" and he took the required pledge. Thus was preserved the fiction that Venice was a Republic. Mario and Giuseppe were proud to be republicans but in reality had little influence in Venice.

Over the years other legislative bodies were formed which, with the Doge were combined into the Signoria which was the real ruling body. This was the situation in 1750 when The Gondoliers is set. Then, in 1789, Venice lost its independence to Napoleon Bonaparte. It then passed in rapid succession to the Austrians, to Napoleon's Italy, back to the Austrians. From 1848 it was once more, briefly a republic. Then in 1866 it became a part of the new Kingdom of Italy.

CULTURE
The historic center is the Piazza San Marco and the adjacent Piazetta, the setting of Act I of The Gondoliers, where the Ducal Palace is situated. At the time of its greatest power, Venice was also a center of European culture. It has also been used as a setting by many authors. Most famous are Shakespeare's The Merchant of Venice and Othello and Voltaire's Candide. More recently, it had been the setting of films including several of those about James Bond. Casanova was a citizen as was the composer Vivaldi. Its architecture is one of its glories the splendors of The Ducal Palace and St. Marks and its other churches, picturesque bridges and the palaces of the aristocrats of a bygone age, and other civic buildings. Those who would like to know more about its buildings are advised to look at John Ruskin's classic The Stones of Venice.

Among its famous citizens in medieval times were the members of the Polo family,, especially the young Marco Polo (1294-1324) who opened western eyes to the Orient with his description of this travels to China.

Famous painters of Venice include Bellini, Giorgione, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Canaletto (1697-1768). The last painted all over Europe but is most famous for his many views of Venice, many of which have been used here/

VENICE TODAY
Venice is now shrinking, the population of the city had decreased by about one-third in recent years, with many moving to the more convenient mainland. Access is difficult since it is only by boat or foot; owners cars can not get near their houses but must park on the edge of town. Most of the tall buildings do not have elevators. A trip to the grocery store of any size can mean a boat trip, purchasing only that which can be carried on a boat and then up many flights of stairs to a resident's apartment. (Grocery boat do come into the canals for local purchases.The main industry on the island is tourism. However, there is hope. Recently a mock "funeral" was held. A procession of gondolas, one bearing a coffin, went down the Grand Canal. When they landed, the coffin was opened and inside was a flag with the image of a phoenix (fenice in Venetian). This is a mythical bird which rose from the ashes after a fire and symbolizes rebirth. It is also the symbol; of Venice's opera house.

Venice has also been sinking. The famous buildings are built on wooden piles imported from the mainland. Over the years these have petrified and turned to stone, so have lasted for hundreds of years. However, in the twentieth century, artesian wells were drilled in the lagoon to increase the water supply. This caused the bed rock, on which the piles rest, to sink and the city along with them. At certain times of the year, during high tides, water covers many areas and the ground floors of many old houses are now uninhabitable. However, again there is hope. The sinking seems to have stopped. The high water ("acqua alta" is still a problem. Attempts are being made to use pontoons to prevent the ocean water from entering the lagoon during high tides.

One of Venice's best known exports is its glass. Most of the glassmakers have moved from the city itself to the nearby island of Murano. This can easily be visited from the main island. There is regular boat service between the islands.

THE GONDOLAS AND GONDOLIERI
The first mention of a gondola in Venice is from 1024 and for many years thereafter they were the main means of transportation in the city. Today, however, they are mainly used by tourists and for special occasions such as weddings and special pageants, in special races and other celebrations. The only remaining use for public transportion is on a few locations where they ferry people across the Grand Canal.

The traditional gondola is a flatbottomed rowing boat. It is constructed using eight kinds of wood in 280-300 pieces. It is always painted black. It is rowed by one man (no women are allowed in the guild) standing up one back edge. One side is longer than the other to counter its tendency to turn when rowed. An iron head helps to balance the weight of the gondolier. This represents Venice with six strips in front, one for each sestieri (quarters) of Venice with a seventh pointing backward for the long outer island of the Lido. The top copies the curve of the Doge's hat. Years ago they had closed or open cabins in the middle as can be seen in old paintings. However, these are no longer used as visitors cannot appreciate the views of Venice from inside them. Today there is one boatyard in which they are constructed and which can be visited.

In the eighteenth century, the time of The Gondoliers there were about several thousand of them in use, but today only a few hundred in Venice. However, you do not have to go to Italy to experience a gondola ride. Locally gondola rides are available at Lowes in Coronado. Other places which feature them are in Long Beach, Newport Beach, Las Vegas and Boston and, of course, the California Venice. Some uses genuine gondolas imported from Venice but others are not and, horror of horrors, some are made of plastic!

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Revised December 2010
Please credit Lyric Opera San Diego when using this material.